How many fittings do we need to approve the fit? / by Lana Grant

Fitting after fitting of the same style, how many times should we fit this garment? This is the question we often ask ourselves in our everyday work. What makes one garment fit approved from first fit and some will require 3, 4, or even 5?

Another issue is that too many times we are out of time to achieve perfectly good fit and have to approve the fit “with corrections”. There is no guarantee that those corrections are going to be done. Like there is no guarantee either that the first corrections will be done as advised in our comments. Therefore, we might see the same and additional fit issues in the second fit.

            What we need to know is that our comments will be followed exactly. If we send the corrected pattern, we need to know is the pattern will be used to cut the next sample? I have found it’s not always the case. You’d think we make the vendor’s job easier if we help them with the pattern, but they don’t even use it… not always anyway.

            Why is that? The problem could be that factory does not trust our given directions. It is very important to create the trust so overseas pattern maker will follow our fit comments as it advised. The fit comments should make sense and be clear.

It helps a lot to provide vendor with block patterns which they can use to create a prototype. We also need to advise the factory on how to use our block pattern, what they can change and what should remain as provided block. That called “How to use block pattern Manual”. Not many companies have that.

Often fit comments are done by inexperienced TD’s and they are not entirely correct. We ask for something that could not be physically done. Then we complain that the garment still has the same fit issues. Check with your senior TD or a manager when you not sure about how to proceed, don’t be afraid to ask.

The bottom line is that the production calendar has to be followed and styles need to be approved on time. There should not be more than two fittings before approval and try to step away from “approved with corrections”.

How many fits do you usually have? And how that impact your production cycle?

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